Safety: Below is my original advice for Marrakech and it’s my fervent hope that one day it will be true again (which is why I’m leaving it here).  But shortly after I last visited in March 2011 my favourite cafe was blown up.  So before you plan your trip the best advice I can give is to check for the latest government advice on this destination at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office website.  Even if it is generally regarded as safe to travel there are some useful tips here.  (And before you freak out at all the warnings take a look at this one; advice for the US.)  Right now I wouldn’t choose to visit Marrakech because there are so many other places I also want to see which have less strife, but I do think it is a wonderful place to visit.  I also felt incredibly sorry for all of the hoteliers and anyone whose business relies on tourists; they continue to work hard, provide incredible service yet sadly many of them will see their hard earned businesses slip away.

Advice written before March 2011:

Since the government has put so much effort into building tourism in Morocco they have also cracked down on any crime that might put you off.  Which means that Marrakech is indeed a very safe place to wander around (although do be careful of your bags as pick-pocketing is quite a temptation in the busy streets).  In the evenings you are likely to see whole families wandering about - so there is a wonderful atmosphere after dark.  When I first went to Marrakech I spent time as both a single woman exploring by myself and with some friends - I got a lot less hassle by myself and a lot of advice on looking after my bag from everyone!  If you are hassled by anyone just ignore it and move swiftly on (although don’t be afraid to have a chat with stall holders if you are at all interested in their wares, if you show an interest they will often start to show you their range with pleasure).  My friends did have an incident with one of the henna women, who did some hasty daubing on them and then demanded money.  If you’re not interested in a henna tattoo avoid and move quickly away - don’t let them start!

Vaccinations: Most importantly please go to www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or visit your GP surgery nurse to check that you have any vaccinations you may need - as some of these you cannot do last minute!  You’ll also have to be careful to brush your teeth with bottled water, peel any fruit you eat, avoid ice and generally take precautions wherever bugs may lurk!

Flight time: 3 hours 35 minutes from London Gatwick to Menara Airport.  I have always arranged to be picked up at the airport by a driver from my hotel.

Language: Arabic is the first language, but French is also widely spoken.

Customs: Walking around in public women must cover up - shoulders, arms and legs - linen trousers and pashminas are very useful!  Which is why it’s nice to lie by the pool afterwards and sunbathe!

It may also be considered impolite to take photographs, especially of people’s faces, without asking permission first.  If you think someone may ask for money for the favour it may be worth offering them what you feel is appropriate beforehand - it’s much easier to haggle beforehand than when the photo is in your camera.  (I’ve personally never had a problem, never been refused and never been asked for money.)

Climate: Temperatures vary - the last time I visited in March it was very hot in the middle of the day but it can also be cold at night.

Currency: Moroccan dirham were 12.5 to the £.  You are not allowed to bring currency into the country or leave with it - and, although you may be able to find it in the UK, it can be confiscated on entry.  You can either bring cash to exchange (although there may be long queues at the airport) or just withdraw money from cashpoints.  There are a few in the airport and also many near to the centre of town.  Hotels may also exchange currency.

Shopping: Leather goods are a steal; belts, bags, anything really, but my favourite are the oils; argan, rose, orange flower blossom, as well as solid blocks of perfume such as jasmine, just wonderful and will make your luggage smell amazing.  Fabrics, clothes, traditional shoes and imaginative jewellery.  Don’t be put off by the initial price quoted, read my Chinese shopping guide - the same applies here!  Many of the hotels, including several in La Palmeraie have their own boutiques, so if you are looking for something more upmarket do check these out - but don’t expect to haggle much of a discount, if any!  If you’re like me you’ll get so used to haggling with everyone - including taxi drivers - that you’ll want to do it when you get home!

Mobile phones: Phone coverage is patchy in Morocco - I didn’t have a signal anywhere!  Try to organise everything without relying on your phone.  If you have an iPhone or similar many hotels do have free WiFi.

Packing: Suncream, bikini, big bags for your shopping (unless you buy these here too!), ear plugs and mellow music for after your spa, healthy snack bars such as the Nak’d range from Holland & Barrett if you are planning day trips, rehydration salts such as Dioralyte (not just for stomach upsets but also if you get dehydrated from too much heat, exercise or spa time) and Imodium or similar can be useful but I didn’t need these in Marrakech.

See also Marrakech Hotel and Information from my first trip to give you a little flavour of the sights, sounds and smells of Morocco.